Fancy Face
MAKEUP IDEAS FOR THE BRIDE ON HER BIGGEST OF DAYS. Like paint on clean canvas, makeup artist Riku Campo transforms one model into six entirely different brides, offering up gorgeous inspiration plus the how-to for your own wedding day look. Read on for the beauty wit and wisdom of one of our favorite makeup artists, whose resume includes penning in-depth beauty guide Best in Beauty, cover looks for Vogue and Interview, as well as looks for Anne Hathaway, Milla Jovovich, and Molly Sims.
BRIDAL GLOW
The whats, whens, and hows of ensuring perfect skin on the big day? We’ve got you covered. Riku gives us the quick rundown on achieving fresh, gorgeous, and glowing skin, otherwise known as step one of just about every makeup look you could dream up.
Even if you don’t usually splurge on your skin, Riku suggests getting a facial at least three times before your big day is worth the investment; and, as always, adhere to a routine of cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting your skin with spf in between spa trips. Depending on your skin type and age, Microdermabrasion treatments can make a noticeable difference in overall skin tone and texture as well.
For coverage, Riku recommends choosing a liquid foundation with a yellow base and a concealer that’s just a touch lighter than the foundation. He emphasizes: your foundation must match your neck! Dabbing foundation on the inside of your wrist is a good place to test shades, as your arm is generally a good representation of your lightest and darkest skin tones—the top of your arm being the darkest, and the inside being the lightest. (Riku suggests applying a primer before your foundation if you happen to be getting married in an especially humid locale.) Concentrate concealer toward the inner corner of each eye, swirl a loose matte powder on the back of your hand with a large brush, and then dust across your entire face and neck to set. Voilà!
AUTUMN TWILIGHT
For a classic look with a touch of edge, chocolaty and metallic browns with plummy lips should do the trick. “This look is warm and seductive—this bride has a bit of attitude, but still wants to exude femininity and feel beautiful. It’s perfect for a fall or winter wedding,” says Riku.
SKIN: See Bridal Glow for Riku’s recommended regimen.
EYELIDS: Begin dusting the upper lid of each eye (starting from the inner corner) with a matte toasty-brown shadow. Keep the shape round as you arc up toward the nose, and pointed as you brush the color out toward the temples. Dust a shimmery nude shadow onto brow bones. Dust the darker brown shadow along the lower lashes and rim with true-black gel eyeliner along both upper and lower lashes, as well as the inner rim of the lower lids.
LASHES: Apply true-black mascara to the top and bottom lashes.
BROWS: Fill in and shape, keeping to the natural arch and width, with an eyebrow pencil the exact color of the natural brow.
LIPS: Tap lip brush onto matte plummy lipstick. Define the outside line of the lips and fill in with the same color.
CHEEKS: With blush brush, apply a rosé-colored powder blush to the apple of each cheek.
ENGLISH ROSE
Just as cool temps in the British Isles cultivate its colorful gardens, so do the cool tones of this look create its warm, fresh-faced flush. “This look is about turning up the dial on natural beauty,” says Riku, “the goal is a captivating, virginal glow.”
SKIN: See Bridal Glow for Riku’s recommended regimen.
EYELIDS: Begin dusting the upper lid of each eye (starting from the inner corner) with a lilac-hued shadow. Blend across lids, leaving the area directly under the arch of each eyebrow free of color.
LASHES: Apply true-black mascara to the top lashes only.
BROWS: Fill in and shape, keeping to the natural arch and width, with an eyebrow pencil the exact color of the natural brow.
LIPS: Tap lip brush onto matte rosy-hued lipstick. Define the outside line of the lips and fill in with the same color. Finish with a translucent gloss.
CHEEKS: With blush brush, apply a rosy-hued (similar to lips) powder blush to the apple of each cheek.
RUNWAY READY
A look tailor-made for the trendsetting bride—she’s looking for something a little different than the rest. “Tawny tones with matte texture and strong brows go against tradition, while still keeping things incredibly elegant,” says Riku.
SKIN: See Bridal Glow for Riku’s recommended regimen.
EYELIDS: Begin dusting the upper lid of each eye (starting from the inner corner) with a matte toasty-brown shadow. Blend across lids, leaving the area directly under the arch of each brow free of color. Line the upper lashes with a dark-brown eye pencil; smudge the line with a sponge-tipped wand. To finish, dust the same eye shadow along the lower lashes of each eye for a smoky effect.
LASHES: Apply true-black mascara to the top lashes only.
BROWS: Fill in and shape, keeping a steady width as you go from the inside edge to the outer tip. As you approach the outer tip, draw slightly beyond the natural length, allowing the width to slim just a little. You may wish to use an eyebrow pencil a touch darker than the natural color of the brow.
LIPS: Tap lip brush onto matte nude lipstick and fill in lips.
CHEEKS: With blush brush, apply a terracotta-hued powder blush to the apple of each cheek.
CLASSIC BEAUTY
“It’s the epitome of ‘ladylike’—the perfect amount of impact in all the right places,” says Riku. A look favored by a certain Grace, Kate (and Cinderella), this modern take on a classic is the perfect choice for meeting your own Prince Charming at the aisle’s end.
SKIN: See Bridal Glow for Riku’s recommended regimen.
EYELIDS: Apply true-black mascara to the top lashes only. Using tweezers and lash glue, apply two small, individual faux lash pieces to root of the natural lashes at the inner corner of each eye. Moving toward the outer corners, apply six additional medium-sized faux lash pieces to each eye (top lashes only).
LASHES: Apply true-black mascara to the top lashes only.
BROWS: Fill in and shape, keeping to the natural arch and width, with an eyebrow pencil the exact color of the natural brow.
LIPS: Apply foundation and loose powder onto lips to create a base for the lipstick. Tap lip brush onto matte crimson-hued lipstick. Define the outside line of the lips and fill in with the same color.
CHEEKS: With blush brush, liberally apply a rosé-colored powder blush to the apple of each cheek.
MRS. SIXTY
Sweet and sassy, Riku emphasizes the peepers for this look, gel-penciling a thick and swooping cateye. “This one takes its cues from Audrey Hepburn and the clean, chic glamour of the Sixties, but softens it all a bit for a modern, bride-apropos look,” says Riku.
SKIN: See Bridal Glow for Riku’s recommended regimen.
EYELIDS: Begin dusting the upper lid of each eye (starting from the inner corner) with a matte nude shadow. Blend across lids, leaving the area directly under the arch of each brow free of color. Using an eyeliner brush and true-black gel eyeliner, begin drawing a line from the inner corner of each upper lid, thickening the line as you move outward and swooping it up as you reach the end of the natural lashes. Rim the bottom lashes finely with the same liner, taking the line all the way to the inner corner of each eye.
LASHES: Apply true-black mascara to the top and bottom lashes and let dry. Using tweezers and lash glue, apply a full set of faux lashes to each eye at the root of the natural lashes (top lashes only).
BROWS: Fill in and shape, keeping a steady width as you go from the inside edge to the outer tip. As you approach the outer tip, draw slightly beyond the natural length, allowing the width to slim just a little. You may wish to use an eyebrow pencil a touch darker than the natural color of the brows for dramatic effect.
LIPS: Tap lip brush onto matte pale-pink lipstick and fill in lips.
CHEEKS: With blush brush, apply a warm matte bronzer to the apple of each cheek.
SPLENDID SMOLDER
“Full-out drama on cheeks, eyes, and lips has been considered fashionable only during the 20s, 70s, and 80s—but can still be quite striking and lovely today if you keep your color silhouettes round (nothing too angular) and pair the look with a clean, sophisticated hairstyle, ” says Riku.
SKIN: See Bridal Glow for Riku’s recommended regimen.
EYELIDS: Begin dusting the upper lid of each eye (starting from the inner corner) with a matte toasty-brown shadow. Blend across lids, leaving the area directly under the arch of each brow free of color. Switching to a deep, mossy-brown metallic shadow, darken the center of the lids and creases, arching the color toward the nose. Dust the darker shadow along the lower lashes. Finish by lining lower lashes and the inner rims of the lower lids with true-black gel eyeliner.
LASHES: Apply true-black mascara to the top and bottom lashes.
BROWS: Fill in and shape, keeping to the natural arch and width, with an eyebrow pencil the exact color of the natural brow.
LIPS: Line lips sharply and clearly with a deep, wine-colored lip pencil. Fill in lips, first by applying a translucent gloss and then dabbing with a like-colored, matte lipstick. To finish, reline lips if needed.
CHEEKS: With blush brush, dust a rosy-hued powder blush under cheekbones and into the apples, just slightly.